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AVIV (South Beach)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Philadelphia chef Michael Solomonov brings his generational talents back to South Beach with Aviv, an upscale Israeli restaurant which opened two weeks ago at the 1 Hotel. Miami’s last taste of Solomonov’s cuisine were his short-lived, much-loved fast-casual concepts Federal Donuts and Dizengoff in Wynwood, both shuttered in 2018. Whether he has staying power this time will depend on whether he’s cracked the code of the hotel’s revolving-door restaurant space.
The Vibe: Inside the enormous dining room off the hotel’s lobby — a room that’s played host to a rotating set of concepts by high profile chefs over the last decade, from Tom Colicchio to Miami’s own Jose Mendin — Aviv is styled in warm natural stone and wood finishes with soft glowing lighting and an open kitchen, great views of which can be found from almost any vantage point in the restaurant.
The Food: Fresh and flavorful, Aviv’s menu consists of shareable small and large format plates. Solomonov’s hummus is the obvious (and correct) place to start. Prepared with whipped herb tehina, paprika, and extra virgin olive oil, it’s creamy and served with pita-like Yeminite saluf bread baked on order. Other standout mezzes include spiced beef Moroccan cigars drizzled with spicy local honey and goat cheese stuffed dates. The entrees are fire-grilled veggies and proteins (“al ha’esh”), including lamb merguez, dorade, and beef.
Not unlike Solomonov’s perpetually hot Laser Wolf restaurants in Philadelphia and Brooklyn, Aviv offers a generous “Tayim” set menu, which includes hummus and a gorgeous salatim platter to share, along with one mezze, al ha’esh, and dessert per diner ($75 per).
The Drinks: The cocktail menu is punchy and fun with drinks like a Manhattan made with fig-infused 10-year bourbon and Turkish tobacco bitters, and a Savory Garden Martini made using something called garden-umami water, along with koji and Castelvetrano olive brine. For those who prefer something less boozy, the menu’s spritz section features the lovely 24th & Collins, made with strawberry-infused Aperol and fresh cucumber. The wine list, meanwhile, is long, diverse, and global.
The Verdict: An upscale, fresh Israeli concept in harmony with a beautiful space by one of the country’s most celebrated chefs — we hope it sticks. –Amber Love Bond
→ AVIV (South Beach) • 2341 Collins Ave • Sun-Wed 5-10p, Thu-Sat 5-11p • Reserve.