BARS • First Round
The Skinny: The debut of Andaz Miami Beach (formerly The Confidante) in May means the return of some of José Andrés’s greatest hits to Miami Beach. First up: Bar Centro, a lobby lounge for cocktails and light bites. The concept originally debuted in Miami at the recently shuttered SLS South Beach alongside the upscale Bazaar, which is slated to open at the Andaz early next year.
The Vibe: An airy, light-filled space near the hotel’s second-floor “arrivals lounge,” Bar Centro is an intimate, modern take on the classic Art Deco hotel lobby bar. Wave-like recessed lighting crowns a curvaceous, narrow space where sand-toned sofas and coral-pink club chairs line wood-paneled walls punctuated by potted palms and birds of paradise.
The Drink: The best of the cocktails highlight Andrés’s playful spirit, often incorporating molecular techniques with liquid nitrogen. The Ancient Olive, for instance, is a deconstructed olive oil-washed dry gin martini, which arrives with a sidecar of olive juice. The Reverse Carajillo is made with Spanish brandy topped with a decadent tres leches espuma. Global wines and local beer are also on the menu.
The Food: Given Andres’s presence in Miami for over a decade, much of the Bar Centro menu will feel familiar. Caviar cones and oysters aguachile are the stars of the show, while “little snacks” include olives a la El Bulli legend Ferran Adria, and a decadent grilled cheese made with Basque Idiazabal, manchego, mozzarella, and brie, which pairs beautifully with a thimble-sized shot of gazpacho. And, of course, no one does croquetas de pollo better.
The Verdict: A chic, low-key lobby bar. Consider it an amuse-bouche before The Bazaar returns. –Rebecca Wallwork
→ Bar Centro (Mid-Beach) • 4041 Collins Ave • Daily 6-11a, Sun-Thu 4-11p, Fri-Sat 4p–12a.