Lowkey wine

Carbone Vino (Coconut Grove)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Opened late last year in Coconut Grove, Major Food Group’s Carbone Vino suits its inland locale, with a softer take on the maximalist vibe of its sister restaurant, Carbone proper. A few months in, it’s an easier reservation, too.

The Vibe: The expansive dining room features a black-and-red checkered floor, a high coffered ceiling, walnut and mahogany accents, burgundy velvet drapes, and candlelit white-cloth tables. The walls are adorned with art, the anchoring piece being an Italian flag with splotches of purple reminiscent of spilled red wine. The atmosphere is less heavy-handed than Carbone, with a relaxed neighborhood bistro charm that fits nicely beneath lush, tree-lined Grand Avenue. Reservations are still necessary, but you could also wait for a seat in the lounge, which serves drinks and limited bar bites.

The Food: Many Carbone favorites carry over, including the spicy rigatoni vodka, Caesar salad, and several starters, like the baked clams. The artichoke hearts are everything an artichoke heart should aspire to be, while the pumpkin agnolotti manage a predictably perfect balance of savory and subtle sweetness. For secondi, the lamb chops giudia are tender and flavorful.

The Drinks: A 3,000 bottle wine list spans the globe. The cocktail program executes classics with precision, from whiskey sours to Negronis and Manhattans. I especially enjoyed a sbagliato spritz, mixed with a dash of strawberry.

The Verdict: A perfectly enjoyable — and more grounded — alternative to its glitzy South Beach counterpart, in a less-hectic, leafy Coconut Grove. –Katelin Stecz

→ Carbone Vino (Coconut Grove) • 2911 Grand Ave • Daily 4-11p • Reserve.