The restaurant issue

Elastika, Sereia, Macchialina, best hotel bars, Restaurant Rush revisited, Caja Caliente, Chef Adrianne’s Vineyard Restaurant & Bar, celebration restaurants, MORE

Aug 22, 2024

ABOUT FOUND • Restaurants

Where should you eat right now

At FOUND, we capture the restaurant scene via three primary lenses — short narrative pieces relaying our experiences dining in the field (First Person, First Word), distilled lists of recommendations (The Nines), and interviews with the city’s movers, shakers, and industry insiders of taste (Routines).

FOUND is fascinated with what’s new, reporting regularly on just-opened spots before the rush. Just as interesting to us: those places that haven’t received their just acclaim, and old favorites that reward return visits. And while we will spend $500 per person for an extraordinary experience, we are equally at home at an exemplary neighborhood bistro.

Across the breadth of our coverage, we’re as focused on the room and the vibe — the way the restaurant makes you feel — as we are the food. We’re also obsessed with the movements and trends shaping the dining scene, from the evolving reservations game (and challenges of getting a table) to the shifting parameters of what constitutes a power lunch. And finally, our coverage reaches beyond the city, into the suburbs and weekend getaway markets (i.e., “surrounds”).

Here now, for your late-August enjoyment, a sampler of FOUND pieces from the year in restaurants.

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Modern art

On a sunny, hot weekday last week, I rolled up to the host stand at Elastika, the Design District newcomer in the re-emerging Moore Building. No reservation? No problem. Would I like to sit at the bar or a table? I chose the table — a luxury for the solo diner — then found myself in a plush corner booth in the back, the perfect vantage to survey one of the best looking rooms in town.

An island of semicircular booths and banquette-lined tables anchor the center of the space. But the visual draw is upwards, towards the sunlight streaming in from a four-story-high skylight, and a Zaha Hadid sculpture (“Elastika”) stretching its way across the open atrium between floors. It’s a dazzling sight, offset with playful art and decor slightly less maximalist than current local trends dictate.

It’s also a perfect place for a late lunch. Chef Joe Anthony arrives with serious pedigree, having served as culinary director at Manhattan fine-dining fixture Gabriel Kreuther from 2015 until last fall. While those rarefied skills are evident at Elastika, they’re also discreet: Anthony has produced a simpler, lighter menu than that resume might suggest, befitting the South Florida native’s return home.

For starters, I opted for a florally adorned, aged kingfish crudo (a generous eight slices’ worth), alongside a lunch-only pizza of the day. That afternoon, it was a fennel and chorizo flatbread, thin and delicious, topped with Calabrian chili oil. For my main, artfully arranged, grilled head-on Florida sun shrimp materialized floating on snap pea puree — this is bright, Florida-centric cooking at its finest. Dinner is a little heavier: The shrimp course is subbed out for spice-seared diver scallops, and a porcelet ribeye replaces lunchtime’s herb-roasted Green Circle chicken.

As Anthony and his new restaurant settle in, change continues on the surrounding atrium floors. The Moore Building, dating to the 1920s, is undergoing an ambitious renovation that includes a private club and a hotel, both slated to open this fall. Once it’s all fully operational, a quiet lunch may not be as easy to come by. The din will no doubt be fun when it arrives, but do enjoy Elastika’s early days as it builds. –Lockhart Steele, 05/30/24

→ Elastika (Design District) • 191 NE 40th St • Mon-Thurs, 12-3p & 5-10p, Fri-Sat 12-3p & 5-11p • Reserve.

RESTAURANTS • The Nines

Spring Restaurant Rush

New and notable restaurants. The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of Miami’s best. For the full archives, click here.

Maty’s (Midtown), Peruvian stunner by newly- annointed James Beard Award winner chef Valerie Chang, reserve
Elastika (Design District), breezy all-day affair in reopened Moore Building, reserve
Lucky Cat (South Beach), Gordon Ramsay newcomer serving Asian-inspired small plates, sushi, sashimi, more, reserve
Lafayette Steakhouse (Brickell), New American steakhouse by the team behind Marion and Queen, reserve
Catch (South Beach), sceney seafood import from NYC back in new SoFi digs, reserve
Casadonna (Edgewater, above), new Italian clubstaurant from Groot/Tao teams in historic bayfront locale, reserve
Chateau ZZ’s (Brickell), Mexican from Major Food Group in historic manor, reserve (intel here)
Beauty & The Butcher (Coral Gables), Grove Bay Hospitality Group’s latest, serving contemporary American, reserve
Regatta Grove (Coconut Grove), maritime-inspired, mostly al fresco bayfront spot for cocktails and rotating culinary lineup by Miami’s finest, reserve

WORK • Thursday Routine

On fire

MIKA LEON • chef, restaurateur, and content creator • Caja Caliente
Neighborhood you live in: Coconut Grove

It’s Thursday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
No Thursday is the same, except for the fact that I'm juggling a million things at once. I start my days going to Caja Caliente, a Cuban restaurant I own in Coral Gables, and making sure everything is set up for the day and that there are no fires to put out. I also create recipe videos and work with brands to develop content. If it's a filming day, I spend the morning preparing my kitchen and mise en place before my social media manager and I start shooting, usually around 11:30 a.m. I typically shoot around five to six recipe videos a day. I’ll wrap up around 5 p.m. and then it’s on to emails and calls until 8 p.m.

What’s on the agenda for today?
Working from home, getting myself organized for the next few weeks, and taking a few Zoom meetings. I’ll get recipes ready for client approvals and go through creative briefs with my manager. Then, I’ll plan outfits for upcoming shoots and business trips I have coming up. I’ll also send producers photos, releases, ingredient lists, and other necessary documents before taping. I’m writing down talking points and things I’ll need to avoid forgetting. If I have any downtime today, I’ll go for a walk around my neighborhood to unplug.

Any bar or restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I plan my weekends around food — lots of it. My go-to happy hour spot is Bar Taco in Coconut Grove on Friday after work. They have the best mezcal margarita I’ve had in Miami. Saturday morning after class at Mimi Yoga, I check out the Coconut Grove Farmers’ Market and then walk over to Grove Grover for all my cooking essentials. They have the best locally made bread, olive oils, beans and tinned fish. On Sundays, I like to walk over to Sadelle’s for bagels to go with a soft scramble I’ll make at home. On an ideal night, dinner is at Edan Bistro, my favorite Miami restaurant at the moment. The basque cheesecake is a must.

How about a little leisure or culture?
I recently attended the Miami Open and enjoyed some local favorites like Omakai, Dos Croquetas, and Cheeseburger Baby. When I'm not working, I love being outdoors, and that’s usually spending time on Key Biscayne or Kennedy Park, where you can get the best lemonade slushy from the A.C.’s Icees truck. (Make sure to bring cash.)

Any weekend getaways?
My recent weekend getaways have been to Colombia: Cartagena is always a good time and has the best island hopping (my favorite is Baru). While in Cartagena, I always go to La Cevicheria for fresh fish and Erre de Ramón Freixa for dinner.

What was your last great vacation?
I would definitely say Japan. I spent two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto. Nothing compares to the food and culture over there. While in Tokyo, I really enjoyed the teamLab Planets exhibition, knife shopping on Kappabashi Street, and thrifting in the Shibuya area. 05/23/24

RESTAURANTS • First Word

A Portuguese escape

The Skinny: Two-time Michelin-starred chef Henrique Sá Pessoa has partnered with the team behind Dante’s HiFi (Sault Hospitality) to open his first U.S. restaurant, Coconut Grove’s Sereia. Staying true to his roots, Pessoa spins traditional Iberian dishes with modernist technique, elevating rustic classics to fine dining. The doors opened in March.

The Vibe: Soft angles and soothing tones, like an exclusive oceanside spa in a canopy-covered enclave of the Grove — the design mixes natural woodgrains and gently curved furniture with hues of cream, green, and blue. The sound is set at respectful decibel levels, making it possible to focus on the food and present company. (Outdoor seating is a great option for the cooler months.)

The Food: At Sereia, the seafood shines. Salt cod topped with a cured egg, surrounded by fried string potatoes is a must-order. Another Portuguese classic, octopus salad with paprika potatoes, allows quality ingredients to do the heavy lifting. Cured wahoo with sweet potato puree, lime, and salicornia evokes a classic Peruvian ceviche, albeit one that studied abroad in Portugal and stuck around. Finally, if sea urchin sounds like an overwrought addition to beef tartare, think again.

The Drinks: The cocktail menu features some very complex drinks that pay homage to the classic Portuguese ginja and port wine. There’s also a caviar and quince frozinho, exactly as wild and stunty as it sounds.

The Verdict: You might not be able to run away to Portugal for the weekend, but you can make a brief escape to Sereia for an impressive taste of its formidable culinary exports. –Katelin Stecz, 06/13/24

→ Sereia (Coconut Grove) • 301 Altara Ave, Ste 122 • Wed-Sun 530-11p • Reserve.

RESTAURANTS • The Nines

Restaurants, for a celebration

The Surf Club RestaurantResturant (Surfside), Thomas Keller does Miami
Klaw (Edgewater), Norwegian king crab + dry-aged steaks with views of Biscayne Bay
Cote (Design District), clubby, -yet-upscale Korean barbecue steak omakase
Sexy Fish (Brickell), full Miami glitz with side of sushi and miso-glazed sea bass
Joe’s Stone Crab (South of Fifth), career servers, white tablecloths, stone crabs, and cult favorite fried chicken
Shingo (Coral Gables), 14-seat omakase in sleek, simple space w/locally sourced and Japanese import ingredients alike sourced locally and from Japan
Carbone (South of Fifth), spicy rigatoni vodka, tableside Caesar — and a scene
Jaya at the Setai (South Beach), fire dancers and live music paired with elevated pan-Asian plates
Boia De (Buena Vista), Michelin-starred strip mall gem serving eccentric, yet refined Italian

Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or found@itsfoundmiami.com.

WORK • Thursday Routine

Bimini dreams

ADRIANNE CALVO • chef/owner • Chef Adrianne’s Vineyard Restaurant & Bar
Neighborhood you work in: Kendall

It’s Thursday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
Thursday is a major delivery day as we prep for the weekend at my 280-seat restaurant, Chef Adrianne’s. At 9 a.m., our butcher comes in and begins all the trimming and cutting for the day. By 10, the line comes in. 10:30 a.m. is preshift, with our front of house managers and our servers. At 11, we open our doors to the public.

Most days, we have private dining rooms occupied by companies. Because of the great weather in Miami for most of the year, you’ll find patrons dining al fresco on our lakefront terrace. My responsibilities include making sure we open correctly with all the resources we need to make it a successful day. If we open right, chances are we close right.

What’s on the agenda for today?
I’m currently working on expanding our offerings on Goldbelly as our first year was a home run selling our iconic dishes. Yesterday, we did a full day shoot for Goldbelly TV on the history of the restaurant (17 years and counting), and how each dish came about.

Any bar or restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I love the bar at Fiola. They do amazing classic cocktails in a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere. I usually order a couple of Negronis with double orange slices, then have a run at the whole raw bar menu. If I’m really hungry, I’ll end with truffle pasta.

Any weekend getaways?
My favorite weekend getaway is a 20-minute seaplane ride from Miami to Bimini. The beaches are unreal. I like to stay at the Hilton. My day usually looks like this: noon arrival, immediately rent a golf cart, drive from one end of Bimini to the other (one of the most scenic drives ever), stop at Stuart’s for conch salad and a rum punch. Then head on over to the Hilton pool, where they have a swim-up bar, followed by an afternoon at the crystal-clear beach, and dinner at the hotel’s sushi spot.

What was your last great vacation?
Last October, I flew with my family to Milan, then stayed a couple of days in Lake Como and drove to Florence — ate our way through Florence, I mean — and finally stayed a couple of days in Tuscany. It was a stunning villa inside an active vineyard. This is the Airbnb we stayed in and loved.

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Ma(c)ch 2

As a regular, I saw cause for concern in Macchialina’s expansion this spring in South Beach. The Italian restaurant has been brightening an otherwise nondescript stretch of Alton Road for a dozen years now. In taking over the former Miami Hostel next door, brother-and-sister operators Michael and Jacqueline Pirolo put the sanctity of the memories made there (not to mention the charm and ambiance) of Macchialina 1.0 at risk.

Fortunately, it was a risk worth taking.

By transforming the six-room Miami Hostel next door, the reborn Macchialina now boasts a larger dining room, a wide bar with over a dozen seats, and an open kitchen. The garden patio out back remains, though further adorned with greenery and new decor.

All the hits made the trip intact, including the creamy polenta (currently topped with sausage, shiitake mushrooms, and chives), gnocco fritto (fried puffed bread) cavatelli Macchialina, and veal Milanese. Check the specials, but don’t ever skip the tiramisu, a memorable rendition made with dulce de leche and espresso granita on top.

The entire front of house staff is so well-versed on the ins and outs of the (strictly Italian) wine list that I’ve never selected my own wine — and never been led astray. Of course, that’s after I’ve started the evening with one of their martinis (I’m partial to the Ys’awright, made with Bombay Sapphire, Grey Goose, Cocchi Americano, and a lemon twist).

Next up in the machinations of Macchialina: connecting the shiny new restaurant with the original space. Given the way that three-year expansion project worked out, I like their odds. –Amber Love Bond, 06/20/24

→ Macchialina (Miami Beach) • 820 Alton Rd • Mon-Thurs 6-11p, Fri-Sun 5-11p • Reserve.

BARS & RESTAURANTS • The Nines

Hotel bars

Matador Bar, The Miami Beach EDITION (Miami Beach, above), sleek, moody, black walnut-paneled bar with sophisticated cocktails
The Champagne Bar, Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club (Surfside), champagne and fine spirits beneath vaulted ceiling of club’s original 1930s-era ballroom
Broken Shaker, Freehand Miami, (Miami Beach), the cocktail bar that launched Miami’s modern mixology movement (now under new ownership)
Saxony Bar, Faena Miami Beach (Miami Beach), semi-subterranean, speakeasy-style lounge, devolves into late night debauchery
Higher Ground, Arlo Wynwood (Wynwood), indoor-outdoor, jungle-like perch for cocktails by Bar Lab
Sugar, EAST Miami (Brickell), sceney, Balinese-inspired rooftop bar with panoramic views 40 stories above Brickell
The Roof, Esme (South Beach), stylish, lowkey, poolside hideaway for creative cocktails and bites on Española Way
Lido Bayside, The Standard Miami Beach (South Beach), what sunset frosé happy hour dreams are made of
Living Room Bar, W South Beach (South Beach), still a go-to for the classic South Beach hotel bar experience